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Lee-on-the-Solent is not blessed with good
eating-out experiences, those 350 take-aways in the Portsmouth area
have quite a grip on its residents.
Lee councillor Chris Carter, in a recent letter to The News, took
issue with me for not being able to hunt down good restaurants
locally but pointed out that take-aways are 'convenient and
popular'. I have trawled the Lee highways and byways on your behalf
seeking, always seeking but finding little of note. Until now.
Sapori is an Italian restaurant recently opened by husband-and-wife
team Louise and Francesco Sambiase. In the High Street, a stone's
throw from the beach, the new owners are trying to erase memories of
a previous business on this site... the food is freshly cooked
rather than micro waved.
Have they succeeded? Follow me into the smartly decorated
restaurant. Roman-born Francesco has chosen framed photographs of
stylish Roman buildings. White tablecloths, sturdy chairs, flowers,
plants and shelving groaning with coloured glass all add up to a
warm, family-type restaurant which you might be lucky enough to
stumble across in a Rome backstreet.
Sapori, meaning taste, goes down the authentic, traditional Italian
cuisine route, the homely cucina casalinga style of cooking
preferred by those who are keen on the real thing. There is more to
life than pizza and pasta.
But these also feature on the menu, Francesco making pizza from
scratch, the same dough is also fashioned into bread.
On the reasonably-priced menu, start maybe with melanzana alla
parmigiana (oven-baked layers of aubergine, mozzarella, parmesan and
tomato); chicken livers with onion, balsamic vinegar, tomatoes and
deep-fried breaded polenta; Parma ham with buffalo mozzarella or
home-made soup. Proceed with either pasta, a homemade tagliatelle
with prawns and a white wine, tomato sauce, or one of six choices or
main course meat or fish. There's baked chicken breast with goat's
cheese, peppers and potatoes, salmon fillet with a vodka, prawn and
dill sauce and cod with cannellini beans with oregano and tomato
with polenta.
Suppli, rarely seen on UK menus, are little balls of tomato and beef
ragu risotto stuffed with mozzarella with a crisp crumb outer layer.
More precise cooking followed with the scalloppine di vitella, salsa
limone, asparagi e patate, the veal as tender as you'll find
anywhere in Italy where they value this glorious meat, the buttery
lemon sauce mopped up by some of the rosemary-flavoured bread. Diced
potato and asparagus slivers added a further homely dimension, the
seasoning was spot-on.
Francesco makes his own deserts such as calzone gusto, a hot,
folded, sweet pizza with chocolate, mascarpone and biscuits. He
offers traditional tiramisu, too, profiteroles and a ricotta tart
was also tempting. But I had ground to a halt with my two robust
dishes, served with panache and professionalism by Louise, who
expertly and single-handedly covered all tables with calm, friendly
efficiency. She knows her wines, too, an excellent Montepulciano
with depth chosen.
The Sambiases, who worked in Italian restaurants in London, have
cleverly judged their menu, décor and service to suit the area.
Sapori will, I bet, wow even those wedded to takeaways. Be prepared
to be busy, Sapori. My bill came to £21 not including a tip.
Sapori, 108 High Street, Lee-on-the-Solent (023) 9255 4646
Open: Midday-2.30pm for lunch seven days a week, 6pm-9.30pm for
dinner Mon-Sat.
Food: ****
Service: *****
Atmosphere: ****
Disabled access: Yes, ramp up to door and good space in restaurant
for wheelchairs.
How to get there: From Fareham follow the signs to
Lee-on-the-Solent, turning right down Broom Way which becomes Manor
Way and finally left into the High Street, where the restaurant is
on the left. Parking on street or in the seafront public car park.
Diners' View
Susan Court and Jilly Bacon, both from the area: 'We came here for
lunch and were so impressed we returned with our partners,' Susan
said. 'My baked scallops with lemon were lovely and fresh.' 'My
seabass with black olive mash was just right, the charming service
adding a real sense of hospitality,' Jilly added. |